There is something about being on the water at night. Your senses come alive to every sound and smell. What is simple “Whoosh” in the daytime echoes an orchestra of different noises each providing a different descriptor of your surroundings.

We left Mallorca this evening and are now headed roughly for the mainland. I say roughly because we are seeing a shift in weather systems which has finally given us a brief window to get to Ibiza where we can relax for a couple of days, sit out some more spicy conditions before the weather sets nicely for a transit onwards.

This evening’s departure was not conventional. We expected some wind throughout the day with a build in the evening before settling into better conditions for the crossing itself. This is also OB’s first crossing and we figured that it would be kinder on his bladder to have a night crossing - as well as potentially not disrupting the routine we are beginning to build with the kid’s learning time.

So we left Port Andratx at about 1700 and snuck around the corner to a sheltered bay to have a quick swim, have tea, get the kids to bed and let OB have a quick run ashore before departure. Importantly we were timing to allow the weather to blow through ahead of departure.

And that is how the evening started. Pitch black. Swell pushing us into a fairly small anchorage, rocks feeling very close on either side. The dark makes everything feel much closer than it actually is. Wind driving us (thankfully) away from shore.

Noise on all sides. To each sides the crash of water onto rocks. Ahead, the waves breaking on the shore. Behind the rumble of the open Mediterranean. As you begin to read it, it moves from distressing to soothing.

Mallorca has been very good to us. As you are aware, we diverted as the stern gland leak was reaching a point where the best thing was to stop and swap it out. OB and I had had our reunion and celebrity city tour and arrived back at 0600 ahead of a lift at 0900. Everything went as smoothly as could be expected to be honest. Despite being not quite the right stern packing, it was eased into place (with a hammer!) and we now appear to be leak free. So back in the water, a night in a new berth to allow OB to settle into boat life before heading along the coast to Port Andratx where we moored to a buoy, which is where we have been ever since.

All was going so well….. On arrival into Andratx I had even boasted to V that “this was the first time since being on the trip that I did not have a major boat job hanging over me”. What foolish words!!

I have subsequently been reminded that the real definition for cruising is - boat maintenance in pretty harbours with rusty tools and inappropriate spares.

On returning to the boat after a truly lovely meal at Ciao Bello in Port Andratx, (V proclaimed the best grilled squid she has ever had - which is saying something!), we approached in our dinghy.

“V - can you hear that sound of rushing water?”

“Yes”

“Coming from our boat?”

“Difficult to tell….”

Yes - you guessed it. We returned to find our bilge pump emptying our boat into the bay.

It was a head in hands moment.

The relaxation of the evening quickly disappeared.

Action required - kids to bed, all through hulls checked, bilge pump off so we can monitor the size of the leak using bilge depth.

We quickly ascertain that through hulls are all dry, indeed the side bilges are dry. Whatever the leak, it was not filling the bilges at any significant speed. The pump was easily handling the flow - we had just arrived back as it had kicked in and emptied the residual volume. Time for bed - we’ll sort in the morning.

After some sleuthing we track the leak down to our Calorifier - essentially a water heater that uses the engine heat or a 240v immersion coil. Sleuthing did involving ascertaining whether the bilge water was salt or fresh. I have tasted some nasty things in my time but bilge water is right up there. V only later tells me that you just need a dab on the tongue to tell whether it is fresh or saltwater!

We strip off the insulation of the tank to find the braise on the pressure vessel has failed. For now we have simply bypassed the freshwater circuit which means no hot water. Given the temperatures this is not much of a hardship - the real impact is on our ability to clean properly and do the washing up! We will need to buy and fit a new Calorifier when we are next laid up. The annoying thing is where the tank is located - under our bed. This will require the removal of a huge number of systems in order to replace the tank including the battery box and all associated distribution boards and shunt - what a faff!

But we are moving again now. Mallorca was fantastic. We did get a walk inland to the historic town of Andratx to see a windmill and get to the market. It is surprisingly satisfying to move way from the coast just for a few hours.

It was in Andratx that we visited a Chinese market shop that sells literally everything! A great opportunity not only to buy fake grass for OB for the longer voyages, but to stock up on Tupperware, tools, LED lights for the cockpit - literally everything we do not need. All packed away handily into a wheeled shopping bag that will lighten the load when transferring water and rations to the boat. Included in this was a boat blackboard so we can keep a very clear list of all of the defects!

But here we are again at sea. It does feel good to be moving west towards Gibraltar.

Unfortunately along the route to Ibiza, we have suffered our next 2 boat issues!

Canopus has 3 main deck hatches. They are all clearly from the original boat fit and are suffering with age. Now, as the waves break over them, it is clear that they no longer keep the water out. With everything in our forepeak in particular getting very wet, replacement of these hatches has now become a priority.

Secondly, and slightly more worryingly our batteries will not charge to capacity. Our batteries are our life blood. They keep the water pressure, power the fridge, keep our lights (internal and navigational) on, power our emergency systems, allow us to make water etc etc. We have 4 charging systems on board - solar, engine, hydro generator and shorepower. Our batteries are not receiving current from any of theM. This is one to investigate when we get to port. We have power for now but there is definitely something not quite right.

Oh and a third is appearing as I write this - our water system seems to be losing water. If the tanks are brimmed, we quickly lose the capacity to less than 200 litres. I suspect a measurement error!

Yes - there is nothing more expensive than a cheap boat. And yes - cruising does seem to be about mending boats in pretty anchorages. But there is something quite satisfying about the immediacy of these problems. They affect the here and now. They are real. But in a perverse way that makes me reflect on what genuinely the right next course of action is (as opposed to just repairing back to factory) and requires the solving process to be more considered. These problems are real and they do need solving.

And back we are to the noise of the dark. Big rolling sea - is it soulful, stressful or informative? All of the above. The sea is awake tonight, the wind is blowing and looking back to Mallorca is that weather closing in? Was that a distant flash of an electric storm? I probably need to turn the Radar on to check!

So time to sign off!

Sleep well.

L