“Mum, mum the boat’s heading towards land,”

“It’s ok J, the islands ahead are still miles off…”

Some minutes later… “mum, mum it looks like we are going to crash…”

I’m juggling getting the boat ready below decks for the first of our long night sails, I’m drilling pilot holes in a bouncy cabin for a new lee cloth fitting do no one falls out of their bunks, L is cooking pasta, S is on our bed watching Bluey and we are weaving between the outlying islands off the top of Corfu.  

“MUM!!!”

“Ok J look they are still…oh goodness*”.  I arrive on deck to find the autopilot had switched itself off sometime ago and we are indeed heading towards the small islet we had been passing, that was off to our side when I went below decks.  

It’s fair to say I’m still learning to trust this boat.  I should trust my children more too.  

I’m still getting use to what each squeak and creak means and what each change in noise of the engine, what each bilge of water means. Canopus and I haven’t done enough miles yet for me to really trust her, although I think she trying to tell me that she is more that capable.  I’m a giver of trust and it’s still those esrly days where I’m praying it’s all going to come off ok.

It’s 2am and I’m on watch now, it’s a gorgeous night, full moon overhead, it is a bit rally if I’m picky and yes I’ve got a second layer on.  J is soundo on the beanbag in the cockpit floor, my favourite place in rolly seas and indeed my choice of bed when racing around the world.  The wind is now back, having died earlier in the evening.  The jib (sail at the front) is out and helping to steady the boat as we broad reach across the Ionian Sea towards Italy but the engine is still powering us along.  The electronic autopilot has just turned itself off again!  I think it’s time for the sails and ‘Susie’, our mechanical Hydrovane self steering gear.  I think Canopus is trying to tell me she wants to sail.

So how was Albania I hear you ask, well let’s start with the roly anchorage in the resort town of Sarande, our checking in port.  Well it is plagued by day by jet skis using you as turning practice and day tripper boats zooming past, and by night by the 6 neon-decked pirate party ships that weave around the anchorage dangerously close blaring out Albanian house music while throngs of party goers pulsate on its decks, yes it was terrifying the first night!  But once off the hellish anchorage and ashore its a different experience.  That is if you can find somewhere to park the dinghy as visiting yachts are rare in Albania so there is nowhere to leave a dinghy, we tied up to an old green fishing boat and scrambled up a wall.  

What we did find, once we looked past the hub of the hilly resort was a country with a fascinating history, and the sociopolitical impacts can be felt today.  A small country of only 3m, half of who live overseas, tourism is still taking off you get more of that off-the-beaten-track feel than anywhere else on the northern med coastline.  The people were all really friendly, helpful, and made us feel welcome.

While we were there there was a string of wild fires on the hills, the decks of the boat covered in ash in the mornings.  Albania has no infrastructure to deal with these so a plane was brought in from Greece and it spent the days scooping up water from our anchorage, much to the kids delight.  On the subject of infrastructure I understand it’s good no one got ill this week too.  That combined with a feeling of coveting status, and you can start to understand why the country has emigration of its young population, it must be a challenge to turn the tide on.  Prices were only a bit cheaper than Greece.  

The country is however decked with gems: the Blue Eye natural spring, dizzy limestone mountain ranges of the White Mountains with its ottoman era strongholds, and Butrint, an ancient settlement, showcasing 3000 years of archeology in one spot.  

It was an unexpected stopover, forced by the EU 90 day limit on our trip, but sometimes these are the best ones!  

L asked if it was a good stopover as we were motoring clear of the most perilous fuel berth of the trip so far. 

“Give me 100 miles and a beer and I’ll tell you!”

Fair winds all, 
V
Ps kids section not up and running yet, will notify everyone once it is!   *ok you got me, it wasn’t “oh goodness!” X